Essays · May 2026 · 2 min read
Chefchaouen after the day trippers leave.
Between four in the afternoon and ten the next morning it is a different town. On staying two nights in a place designed to be seen in five hours.
The journal · Field notes from Morocco
Our stories
Essays, guides and field notes from the people who plan the journeys — what we heard, who we recorded, and what is worth travelling for.
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How to behave in a room where music is happening.
Ten small things that make the difference between being a guest and being an audience. None of them are about music.
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Essays · April 2025 · 2 min read
Notes on Jajouka, fifty years after the record.
Brian Jones took a tape recorder to a Rif village in 1968 and the village has been managing the consequences ever since. On what the record did and did not do.
What we write about, and why we bother
We are a travel agency, so the honest answer is that these pieces help people find us. The less cynical answer is that most of what we learn on a journey never fits into an itinerary — who taught whom, which village still sings a thing, what a ceremony is actually for — and it seemed a waste to let it go unrecorded.
Everything here is reported first-hand. We go, we listen, we ask permission before we record, and we name the musicians. Where a piece touches on something we sell, we say so in the piece.
Written by the people who plan the trips — Lucas in Essaouira and Paris, Omar in Fez, Khadija in Marrakech. New stories roughly twice a month.